Hawaiian gifts

A ridge of energy on the surface area of the water triggered by a disturbance, which then advances from one position to another. Wind waves are produced by chaffing between the wind and the water that exchanges energy to the water in the form of waves. As the waves grow more significant with continued wind, the energy will also move deeper below the ocean surface. As the waves transfer out of the storm location, the more powerful waves with more energy beneath the ocean surface, with longer period waves with more significant wavelengths, will sustain their energy over long distance and will be recognized as deep water waves or swell. Smaller sized, shorter period waves commonly restricted to the ocean surface will have a tendency to decay more quickly after exiting the wave producing area. As the waves ultimately appear along the coast they will shoal over not so deep water and break and the develop into surf.

Comments are closed.